30 Hours in Hart County, Kentucky

From underground wonders to unexpected animal encounters, homemade meals, and a night spent sleeping in a covered wagon, Hart County has a way of surprising you.

Hart County, Kentucky, is a place that knows itself. It knows its character and characters alike. It knows its people, and it knows its quirks. More importantly, in an increasingly rare display of authenticity, it embraces those things wholeheartedly without falling into gimmickry.

Over about 30 hours in this rural community along Interstate 65, halfway between Louisville and Nashville, I met more than my fair share of Hart Countians. There was an Amish family who started a safari park, a farming family undeterred by a rainy October afternoon, and entrepreneurs breathing new life into a well-loved local restaurant. I also met plenty of Hart County’s animal residents: buffalo, camels, ostriches, kangaroos, lorikeets, cave crickets, salamanders, and bats. It was an eclectic introduction to a place that, despite sitting along one of Kentucky’s busiest interstate corridors, feels wonderfully removed from the hustle and bustle of just about everywhere else. And that, I would come to learn, is part of its charm.

A Place Full of Surprises

My visit began at Dutch Country Safari Park, where I met Michael and Katie, the park’s proprietors, and their children. Both members of Hart County’s prominent Amish community, the couple have created an attraction that is every bit as unexpected as it sounds. The park features a hands-on petting zoo for smaller animal encounters, an indoor menagerie of rabbits, gerbils, and other creatures, and a three-quarter-mile wagon ride through a landscape populated by decidedly non-Kentucky wildlife. Camels, ostriches, and buffalo are among the animals visitors can feed along the way.

It’s not every day that you find yourself face-to-face with a camel in rural Kentucky, much less at an attraction operated by an Amish family, but in Hart County, the unexpected seems to be something of a recurring theme, and that theme continued at Kentucky Down Under, a 75-acre animal park just off Interstate 65 in Horse Cave. The park is home to dozens of species from around the world, including kangaroos, lemurs, dingoes, llamas, and lynx.

Raise your hand if you knew kangaroos were soft. I certainly didn’t. At the park’s Australian Outback Experience, visitors can walk among kangaroos and emus, feeding them by hand and getting remarkably close to animals most commonly seen on TV or social media. I learned that kangaroos have difficulty walking backward because of their tails, but perhaps more importantly, I learned that their fur is incredibly soft.

Before reaching the outback experience, though, I had an altogether different encounter with the park’s lorikeets. Walking through the door with two cups of nectar, I barely had time to register a flash of green, blue, and yellow feathers before a dozen pairs of tiny bird claws descended upon my sleeves and hands. Apparently, word travels quickly among the lorikeets when someone shows up carrying lunch. For visitors seeking something a little less hands—or claws—on, a serene nature trail winds around the back half of the property, offering a peaceful escape from the flurry of feathers and animal encounters.

And then there was Dennison’s Roadside Market, where a rainy October afternoon did little to dampen the family’s enthusiasm. Despite the downpour, the Dennisons were moving full steam ahead with the day’s activities. When we asked Kathy Dennison whether the wagon rides to the pumpkin patch were still happening, she responded with an unequivocal “Of course!” It was a small moment, but one that seemed to capture something about the people I’d encountered throughout Hart County: a willingness to make the most of what they have, regardless of the circumstances.

What Lies Below Ground

Of course, some of Hart County’s most remarkable attractions aren’t found above ground. When I was in kindergarten, I told my teacher I wanted to be a paleontologist—and no, I hadn’t just watched Jurassic Park. I’ve always been fascinated by what lies beneath our feet, which made a visit to Hidden River Cave in downtown Horse Cave particularly appealing.

The cave has a history as fascinating as its natural formations, though not all of it is particularly flattering. Fifty years ago, Hidden River Cave was a sewer. Literally. For decades, the town’s approach to waste management involved dumping sewage into the cave, which, as you might imagine, caused considerable consternation among environmental regulators and anyone concerned with clean water. Following what was reportedly a secret, middle-of-the-night city council meeting in a hospital parking lot, Horse Cave moved forward with a new sewer system, ending the cave’s unfortunate tenure as the town’s underground waste-disposal system.

Today, the cave has undergone a remarkable transformation. Tens of thousands of visitors descend beneath downtown Horse Cave each year to explore its passageways, learn about its history, and experience one of Kentucky’s most extraordinary underground environments. The tour begins with a descent more than a hundred feet beneath street level, past historic equipment that once provided drinking water and electricity to the community. Those pumps were installed by Dr. Thomas, a local dentist whose family home sits just a short distance from the cave entrance.

But the real spectacle comes near the end. Hidden River Cave’s Sunset Dome is among the largest naturally occurring cave domes in the United States. Standing more than 100 feet tall and stretching roughly 150 feet wide and 200 feet long, the chamber is large enough to accommodate a ten-story building.

As our tour came to a close, Jillian, our guide, asked whether we wanted to see something cool. She promptly turned off the lights, and in an instant, the cave disappeared into absolute darkness. I couldn’t see my hand in front of my face, much less the enormous chamber surrounding us. Standing there, I thought about the people who explored caves like this long before electric lights, concrete pathways, or modern safety equipment. Early explorers ventured into the unknown with little more than candles or oil lamps, navigating terrain where a single misstep might have spelled tragedy. How terrifying—and how wonderfully curious—such an adventure must have been.

Hidden River Cave deserves a story all its own, and I’ll have more to say about it soon. But for now, that moment in the darkness is the one I’ll remember.

People Make the Place

As remarkable as Hart County’s attractions are, the experiences that stayed with me most weren’t necessarily about the things I saw. They were about the people I encountered along the way, and nowhere is that more evident than at Green River Hill Grocery.

I’m not a regular at the Grocery, but if I lived closer, I would be. I’ll take just about any excuse to return, and I was glad to have one on this visit. It was my first time back since the untimely passing of Tony Wright in July. I consider it a genuine privilege to have gotten to know Tony, and although I knew Wayne and Dara were carrying on the business with the support of their mother, Rachelle, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. I didn’t see Tony behind the counter or in the kitchen on this visit, but I felt his presence throughout my time there.

The food, as always, was exceptional. The day’s menu included smoked chicken and pulled pork barbecue alongside the Grocery’s staple offerings of cornbread and pinto beans. I opted for the pulled pork, served over fluffy jalapeño-cheddar cornbread and drizzled with just enough barbecue sauce to complement the smoky meat without overwhelming it. And while I passed on dessert this time, I can personally attest that the sweets are every bit as mouthwatering as the rest of the menu.

But Green River Hill Grocery, as I wrote back in March, is about much more than food. Pantry staples line the shelves, quilts come from neighborhood junk sales, and even Green River Hill Grocery merchandise—which I proudly repped the next day. Beyond all of that, though, is a genuine sense of community that can’t be manufactured or replicated. In a county of roughly 18,000 people, it’s hardly surprising that many of the locals know one another. But I suspect that even if someone walks through the Grocery’s doors as a stranger, they don’t leave as one.

That same spirit of hospitality was evident at Five Broke Girls Café in Horse Cave, which had just reopened under new ownership when I visited. The unassuming restaurant was celebrating its soft opening, and the new owners were already approaching the business with care and enthusiasm. Our server, the owners’ nine-year-old daughter, was attentive throughout the meal, and our drinks never went empty.

The food was every bit as welcoming as the service. My dining companions and I started with the onion rings, which came highly recommended. These weren’t your typical frozen, mass-produced onion rings. They were hand-breaded, substantial, and full of flavor. For my entrée, I ordered the chicken-fried chicken with mashed potatoes and green beans, while my friends sampled the signature Hart Burger and a ham-and-cheese melt. Everything looked—and, more importantly, tasted—scratch-made.

Naturally, we couldn’t leave without dessert. Between us, we sampled chocolate pie, strawberry cake, and something called the Spelunker: a freshly baked chocolate chip cookie served in a cast-iron skillet beneath a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream, chocolate syrup, and caramel. And yes, it was as delicious as it sounds.

Horse Cave’s dining scene offered another pleasant surprise at El Corcel, a relatively new Mexican restaurant just off Main Street. The name translates to "The Steed," an appropriate enough name for a restaurant in Kentucky, a state known for its horses. The dining room was packed during my Sunday visit, but the kitchen hardly seemed fazed. From guacamole and ceviche served atop a tostada to carne asada and sizzling chicken fajitas, everything arrived remarkably quickly and was prepared with obvious care. I’m always happy to find good Mexican food, whether at home or on the road, and El Corcel was a welcome addition to my Hart County experience.

Hart County’s Amish community also contributes to its culinary character, most deliciously at Farmwald’s Amish Bakery. The Amish-owned restaurant and shop offers far more than baked goods, including a café, outdoor patio, handmade candies, antiques, and Amish-built furniture. There’s a family story here, too: Joe Farmwald’s mother, Elizabeth Joan, wrote about her journey into the Amish community in A Bridge Between Two Worlds: My Journey to Be Amish, a book available at the store and online.

My visit was brief, but I wasn’t about to leave empty-handed. I picked up a maple éclair and maple doughnut for breakfast the next morning, both fresh from the oven and perfectly suited to the trip’s autumnal spirit. They were deliciously sweet, entirely indulgent, and exactly what I needed before another full day of exploring.

A Different Kind of Overnight Stay

For all of Hart County’s unexpected attractions and memorable meals, perhaps the most unusual experience of my visit was where I spent the night. When I learned that my accommodations would be a Conestoga wagon, I’ll admit I was hesitant. I wasn’t necessarily opposed to the idea, but I wasn’t entirely sure what I had signed up for, either.

The Horse Cave KOA Holiday sits just off Interstate 65, but the campground feels far removed from the traffic rushing past nearby. Alongside traditional RV sites, cabins, and treehouses are four covered Conestoga wagons converted into overnight accommodations. And these aren’t exactly the wagons of pioneer days. Inside mine was a comfortable king-size bed, twin bunk beds, a mini-fridge, microwave, Keurig, and—thankfully, given the chilly October weather—climate control.

The one concession to the rustic experience is the lack of an ensuite bathroom, although the exceptionally clean bathhouse was just a short walk away. Rain followed me into the evening, and as I settled into bed, I listened to the gentle rumble of thunder and the steady patter of raindrops against the wagon’s weatherproof canvas roof. I slept like a baby, and for someone who hadn’t been entirely convinced about spending the night in a covered wagon, I was pleasantly surprised by just how comfortable the experience turned out to be.

More Than a Stop Along the Interstate

Thirty hours isn’t nearly enough time to experience everything Hart County has to offer—there are more caves to explore, more places to eat, more people to meet, and more stories waiting to be told. But it was enough time to understand something about the place.

Hart County isn’t trying to be Louisville, Nashville, or even one of Kentucky’s most recognizable tourist destinations. It doesn’t need to be. Its appeal comes from the people who call it home, the businesses they’ve built, the traditions they’ve preserved, and the unusual assortment of experiences you might never expect to find in one small, rural Kentucky county.

There’s something refreshing about a place that doesn’t feel compelled to reinvent itself for visitors. Instead, Hart County seems content to invite you in, show you what it’s all about, and let you decide for yourself. From the absolute darkness of Hidden River Cave to the warm hospitality of Green River Hill Grocery, from kangaroos and camels to maple doughnuts and covered wagons, I found plenty worth returning for.

Hart County knows itself. After 30 hours, I feel like I’m beginning to know it, too.

Plan Your Own Hart County Getaway

Inspired to visit? Here are the places I explored during my 30 hours in Hart County, along with links to help plan your own trip. Check operating hours and availability before heading out.

Things to See & Do

• Dutch Country Safari Park — Horse Cave, KY
  An Amish-owned animal park featuring a hands-on petting zoo and a three-quarter-mile wagon safari where visitors can feed camels, ostriches, buffalo, and more.
• Hidden River Cave & American Cave Museum — Horse Cave, KY
  Explore the fascinating history and natural beauty beneath downtown Horse Cave on a guided underground tour, complete with the spectacular Sunset Dome.
• Kentucky Down Under Adventure Zoo — Horse Cave, KY
  Get up close and personal with kangaroos, feed colorful lorikeets, and discover animals from around the world at this Australian-themed adventure park.
• Dennison's Roadside Market — Horse Cave, KY
  A family-owned farm market offering fresh produce, Kentucky-made products, seasonal activities, and pumpkin-patch wagon rides in the fall.

Where to Eat

• Green River Hill Grocery — Munfordville, KY
  A beloved country grocery and gathering place serving homemade Southern favorites, smoked barbecue, cornbread, and desserts. Come hungry and leave feeling like a local.
• Farmwald's Restaurant, Bakery & Country Store — Horse Cave, KY
  An Amish-owned bakery, restaurant, and country store known for its freshly baked doughnuts, homemade meals, candies, and handcrafted goods.
• Five Broke Girls Café — Horse Cave, KY
  A family-owned café serving hearty, homestyle meals, hand-breaded onion rings, and indulgent desserts, including the signature Spelunker skillet cookie.
• El Corcel — Horse Cave, KY
  A Mexican restaurant near downtown Horse Cave offering fresh guacamole, ceviche, fajitas, carne asada, and other familiar favorites.

Where to Stay

• Horse Cave KOA Holiday — Horse Cave, KY
  Spend the night in a climate-controlled Conestoga wagon, treehouse, or cabin at this family-friendly campground just off Interstate 65.

Trip Planning

• For more ideas and inspiration for your own Hart County getaway, visit Hart County Tourism at KYGetaway.com.